a moment in Nagasaki

Peace in Nagasaki.

I was given an amazing opportunity to visit the picturesque city of Nagasaki last weekend. It had remained on my list of things to see in Japan for quite some time. Traveling there, I anxiously anticipated my visit to the Nagasaki Peace Memorial, the final location I had wanted to visit that held strong ties to the Pacific War (Pearl Harbor, Hiroshima, and Nagasaki). It was almost like obtaining that final baseball card that completed a dream team collection for me; a check waiting to be placed on my sheet of folder paper. I had no idea what lessons God had waiting for me in Nagasaki...


I found myself on a park bench at the Atomic Bombing Epicenter Monument at just after 11:30am. Some peaceful Chris Tomlin music was playing on my ipod. I ever so carefully began to fold a paper crane out of some scratch paper I found in my purse.  I noticed a pack of Japanese tourists following their guide around the park. Two European men posed for a picture as their friend shouted to them in French. An older man bent down to clean up a mess his dog left for him by the water fountain. I looked up at the bright blue sky; the brilliance of autumn leaves caressed the young day. I closed my eyes and tried to imagine how, amidst the beauty and peace that surrounded me, such a disaster could have devastated such a place, at just around the same time of the day, almost 65 years ago. Just as I looked up to the black monument, Chris Tomlin's words sounded through: "I will rise on eagle's wing, no more suffering, no more pain." That moment was enough to trigger the waterworks.

I look back at all the pictures I took of Nagasaki during the trip and my mind can't help but wander. I ask myself what someone who experienced the atomic bombing on that day would say if I were to show them one of the pictures I took. If I were to somehow travel back in time and, amidst the chaos and sorrow following the explosion, show a picture of today's Nagasaki and say, "this is what Nagasaki will look like in 65 years." Would they believe me? How could one see past such turmoil and destruction? How do you even begin to rebuild a city that has seen so much devastation?

The view of Nagasaki's city lights from Mt. Inasa.

The beautiful Nagasaki skyline.

The pictures and videos in the museum paint the picture, in my mind, of hell on Earth. People whose bodies are charred with scalding burns, wanting to die but not being able to, searching for loved ones amongst mountains of debris. Today I see junior high school students on a school trip touring the same location with cameras in hand, old Japanese couples feeding birds under the cooling shade, and children laughing as they chase each other through the soft, green grass of the park. Peace lives in Nagasaki. I tucked my checklist away in my pocket, almost ashamed, ashamed of my attitude coming to the park. I came with the intention of getting some nice snapshots for my album and I left with a new understanding of the word peace.

When I grow up, I wanna be a fox...

Me pretending to help carry the big, heavy omikoshi shrine ;)

In Japan, November 3 is National Culture Day. I found myself at the Kudamatsu Fox Wedding Festival, which is a celebration for a successful rice season. Food and game vendors lined the narrow streets of Kudamatsu's small town of Hanaoka. There was a bunch of festivities, including a parade of omikoshi hand-carried shrines (which I was blessed to be a part of), Japan boy scout performances, a kid marching band, handmade floats, and finally, the Fox Bride and Fox Groom, signifying good fortune. Every year, two people are picked in secret, and their identity is kept hidden from the public throughout the festival.

The couple of the hour! The Fox Bride and Fox Groom! Do you know who it is?

I've heard a bunch of different versions of the story upon which this festival is based. One of my teachers I teach with said that long ago, a priest found a pair of white foxes in the forest. He raised them as his own children and in return they brought good fortune to his village. And so every year there is a festival in their honor.

The amazing people who let us join in the parade.

It was really cool to have the chance to actually participate in the omikoshi-carrying down the street. Kyle's friend from City Hall, Nakamura, invitied us to take part in the tradition with a group of his friends. We all hoisted this heavy wooden structure up on our shoulders (well, not me really because I'm so much shorter than everyone else) and yelled out "washoi!" in time with a whistle. They even let me have a chance at riding the shrine! I will admit, it was quite scary being up that high, while being carried by a bunch of drunk and happy men :) I had an amazing time laughing and chatting with the other omikoshi carriers. Many people drank lots of sake before the actual parade (and even DURING!). I don't know how we managed to carry that thing all the way to the end. We even got hoppi coats to wear...and FACE PAINT! We were true Japanese foxes :)

Kyle and me in our "fox" outfits.

During the festival, I took a step back and watched the festivities around me. There were hundreds people around me, both young and old, who were gathered here to celebrate their culture, my culture. I am Japanese afterall. Never before had I felt such a strong tie to my Japanese roots. It was an indescribable feeling. I was almost moved to tears as I watched a traditional dance team perform in front of the Hanaoka Shrine. This is stuff my ancestors must have done a long time ago, I thought to myself. Finally, I've begun to feel like a part of the Yamaguchi family, and a part of Japan.

I am proud to be Japanese.

Rafting with the Power Rangers

The Oshimatsu gang: (L to R) Michelle, Brandon, me, and Kyle :)

The reservations had been set, tickets purchased, and I had (by some miracle) managed to reverse my car onto the ferry that would take us to Mitsuhama Port in Matsuyama, Shikoku. The short weekend getaway came at the perfect time, and the Oshimatsu gang was ready for some white water rafting excellence. After about an hour ferry ride and a 2 hour car ride full of 90s hits, we found ourselves in a quiet, super inaka (countryside) town called Otoyo at around 10:30pm. We met the owner of the rafting company, a cool Aussie named Mark, who then loaded us up into his tiny Japanese pickup truck and drove us to our hostel. The hostel had a worn-down, old log cabin feel to it. Our futons had already been laid out on the tatami floor. It felt like we were high school kids who had just been dropped off by Mom and Dad for an unsupervised weekend :D I could barely close my eyes from all my excitement, but somehow managed to drift into a deep sleep...

We woke up bright and early, grabbed some food from a local market, and met up with the other rafters at the Happy Raft office. It was a special day for rafting, geared towards veterans who had rafted with the company many times before. In the spirit of Halloween, many people were dressed up, including our rafting guides, the POWER RANGERS! :)

"Oh, Japan..."

I got to sit in the VERY front! AHH!

Emergency contacts were exchanged, safety waivers signed, and before you knew it, we were geared up and loaded onto a bus for Yoshino River. We met our rafting guide, Gordon aka. the Green Ranger w/dreds, who gave us a safety shpeel before getting us into the raft. The water was FREEZING. Like Jack-Dawson-floating-in-the-Atlantic-Ocean FREEZING. It was quite beautiful though. A lady I met in an onsen told me that the rocks on the river floor have a blue tinge to them, making the crisp, clear water appear even more blue.

The next 4 hours rafting down a 9km segment of the Yoshino River can only be descibed as "bizarre". IT. WAS. AWESOME. Guides would randomly pick up and throw rafters into the blistering cold water, creating chaos amongst the boat. No one was safe. Just as you were helping a fellow raftmate back into the boat, you yourself would either be pushed or pulled in! The Blue Ranger was dropkicking people off of their rafts, people were splashing each other with their paddles, and the Scream Ghost was doing backflips off the edge of the boat. Incredible. At times I needed to take a step back and breath just to process the craziness before me.

The rafting itself was both exciting and terrifying. Since we had come the 2nd to the last week of rafting season, the water level was lower than usual, exposing many rocks and affecting the water flow around certain areas of the river. On some of the higher grade rapids (level 4), the current was super strong and our boat seemed to be almost vertical at times. Despite the playful mannerisms of the rafting crew, when things needed to be taken seriously, they were superbly professional, making me feel safe 100% of the time. At one point, a rafting crew got stuck amongst the rocks and current. It was cool to see the other guides band together to help them out. (What was even COOLER was that they were dressed as Power Rangers, there to save the day!)

Battling one of the grade 4 rapids.

We all survived the adventure and concluded the day with a delicious bagel sandwich buffet and a nice onsen bath. The crew was kind enough to invite us to a party at one of the guide's house for dinner and drinks. We partied the night away; meeting fellow rafters, learning about the area through broken Japanese/English, feeding dogs, eating crocodile and kangaroo BBQ, watching people fool around in their Halloween costumes, and enjoying the beautiful scenery of Tokushima.

Success! We made it through! Thank you Green Ranger! :D

I wish I could have stayed in that moment forever. It will definitely be a highlight during my stay in Japan :)

Life Lessons with Mr. Matsuoka :)

It was 3-1, Red Hats. Victory was within our grasp, we just needed to hold our ground for a bit longer. It was a gorgeous day for soccer. Thy sky was as blue as ever and a refreshing breeze generously graced the field. Mr. Matsuoka and I had been leisurely playing offense for the past 20 min with the kids of Shimanaka Elementary School.

We Red Hats were just about to end the slaughtering of the White Hats when suddenly, things took an unexpected turn. Enter Yoshiki and Ayana, the 3rd grade powerhouse duo. In a flash, the score had transformed: 4-7, White Hats. The boys on our team were getting a taste of defeat and they did not like it one bit. How silly, I thought to myself as I watched a kid on my team kick up some dirt. I was then reminded of my own elementary school basketball games and the gutt-wrenching pain of defeat I had once endured. This wasn't just a leisure lunch recess soccer game, it was a war.

The White Hats were throwing in goals left and right. Each time a goal was scored, the boys on my team would begin grumbling and complaining, motioning for a trade in team members. "Give us Shinji for Toshiya!" they'd call out, shamelessly sacrificing a team member. Step in Mr. Matsuoka. He huddles the kids together and passionately exclaims, "When you lose a point, you just gotta stand right back up and play that much harder!"

Doesn't that work on so many different levels? I paused for a moment to absorb what Mr. Matsuoka had said. When it came to kendo, work, my busy schedule, and anything and everything else buzzing around in my head at that particular moment, Mr. Matsuoka's words put me fully at ease.

Mr. Matsuoka and I decided to step up our game a bit to try and show the kids that their new efforts would not go to waste. Unfortunately, despite their age and height, Yoshiki and Ayana were just too strong a force and the White Hats won, 6-17. I'm not sure if those boys were able to fully appreciate the important life lesson given by Mr. Matsuoka that day, but I'm sure they will have plenty other opportunities to learn it. One thing's for sure: Tiff needs to get better at soccer.

カープ, カープ, カーウ 広島!

It was a beautiful day for some baseball!

I have never been a huge baseball fan. I'm more of a high intensity, full contact type sports fan, namely football and hockey. My parents tell me they took my brother and me to local games when we were little, although the only thing I remember from these "so-called games" is the hot dogs :) So when there was mention of going to a baseball game here in Japan, I was a bit reluctant.

I'll just say it now: Japanese baseball games are the greatest things EVER. This game we went to would easily make my 'top 10 favorite moments on JET' list. The energy of the crowd is amazing. Think of it as being a combination of the excitement of an 8-year-old running to the Christmas tree on Christmas morning and the insanity of walking up the various levels of a Don Quixote in Tokyo (just google image 'Don Quixote' and you'll see what I mean). The amount of loyalty and dedication Japanese baseball fans have to their favorite team is beyond description. Let's just say, if our NASA rockets could utilize such dedication as a means of fuel, we'd be having tea with Chewy and Han everyday at 4pm.

It wasn't the most memorable game in the world. The Hanshin Tigers dominated the Hiroshima Carps, 11 to 4. Each batter took their turn at the plate, hitting foul balls, 2-baggers, and even 3-baggers. We even witnessed a home run :) For me, the noteworthy part of the day was being fully immersed in the same moment with the thousands of people in the stadium. We all came from different walks of life, and yet, in these few hours, the game was all that was on our minds. Disregarding the mountains of paperwork due on Monday or the lesson planning for the week, all we cared about at this exact moment in time was whether Kokubo would strike out or not.

Oh, Japan. You never cease to amaze me.

There are some interesting components to Japanese baseball that have no American equivalent. One being the 7th inning stretch tradition of inflating falic-shaped balloons and shooting them into the air while singing a team's fight song. Also throughout the game, drums and trumpets would lead the fans in special chants specific to the players at bat. They even sell special sticks to help aid in keeping the rhythm. I have yet to learn the various motions and chants associated with the Hiroshima Carps, but have made it a goal before opening season next April.

My baseball commentator/slang educator, Kyle :)

I had such an amazing time at the game. Who knew baseball could be so exciting? Even though our seats were in the Hanshin Tigers cheering section by mistake (hehe, a bit awkward at times, especially when the Carps made a hit), we still managed to cheer our little hearts out (Japanese style) and have a grand ol' time :)


Hiroshima Carp Cheering Section (These guys are intense! Check it out!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rY5RgphWMVg

Carp Fight Song (My goal is to learn the words to this song, and sing it w/all the passion in the world at the next game I attend!)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7B1gqR3AKKo

Checklists

2 months have passed in this, my 2nd and final year with the JET Program. It's a strange feeling because now, when I take a trip to a far away place in Japan, I catch myself thinking how it may or may not be my last visit. I don't blog out of sadness or dismay, but rather, anticipation of the countless adventures yet to be had in this amazing nation in the remaining 10 months!

With that, I present to you my checklist of things I want to see/do in the next 10 months while in the JET Program (not in any particular order):

1. Capture the 100 Shinsengumi Memorial near Itabashi station in Tokyo through artsy photography.
2. Run down the riverbanks of the Arakawa River in the Adachi area just like they do in Kinpachi Sensei.
3. Hug the Hachiko statue at Shibuya Station.
4. Leave a paper crane in the Peace Memorial Park in Nagasaki.
5. Snowboard a black diamond slope in Hokkaido.
6. Slurp down a meal at an outdoor ramen stand.
7. Tokyo Disney and Disney Sea. (At least one day per location!)
8. Ikebukuro Gyoza Stadium and Ice Cream City. 'nuff said ;)
9. Cheer at a kendo competition.
10. 2010 Saga International Balloon Fiesta. Again, 'nuff said :)
 --------------------Edit-----------------------
11. Slurp down some ramen at the Ramen Museum in Yokohama (credit to Dad...hehe)

hawaii sweet hawaii (part 2)

Me and my brother enjoying shave ice in Hilo.

I had survived the grueling 13 hour climb up Mt. Fuji and was now enjoying the reward of being home for 2 weeks. What was my first meal being back in Hawaii? Go on, guess ;) The answer: RUBY TUESDAYS! 2 turkey mini burgers, a side of steamed broccoli instead of fries, and their endless salad bar. Delicious. The next couple of days were filled with dinners, surfing, parties, Ala moana trips, and other outings with friends and family. I surprisingly got back into driving on the right side of the road pretty quickly. (There was one incident early on where I annihilated the 'no parking' sign in our driveway but besides that, everything was cake.)

Mom and me at TACO BELL! (My 2nd meal back in America!)

It was so nice eating the food in Hawaii! (At one point when I was very homesick in Japan, I made a list on my laptop about all the eateries I wanted to go to when I returned home.) Although there wasn't enough time to go to all of them, I did manage to go to the following: taco bell, L&L drive inn (spam musubis....thanks Erickshin!), subway, shokudo (honey toast mmm...thanks Colin!), yamaz fishmarket, zippys, island burgers in manoa, buca di beppo, cheesecake factory, big city diner, kincaids (thanks Heather&Brandon!), and kaka'ako kitchen. Notice, no Japanese food! Yeah, I made it a point not to eat Japanese food...

Buca di beppo w/Kai, Allie, Heather, Brandon, Steph, and Kele. Oh...and Myles ;)

Cheesecake factory w/the family :)

I was blessed to have the chance to celebrate my champagne birthday (24 on the 24th!) back home. A small handful of people came over to my house for a home-cooked spaghetti and pizza dinner. Seeing as how my house is an alcohol-free zone, we moved the party to Toma's and drank&sang well into the night. にじかい (2nd party after the main party) was at Ocean Sports Bar where James and friends took good care of us ;) I had such a great time. Thank you again to everyone who came out! You guys ROCK!!! Doomo to James, Shelby, and the gang at Ocean! (Let's party it up in Japan next time!) :)

The gorgeous ladies of the evening :)

During my trip, my friend Cyndi (a fellow ALT from Yamaguchi who was ending her contract) came for a short visit. It was really cool having my life in Hawaii mix with my life in Japan. Cyndi got to meet my friends, people that I had talked about all year, and see me in my natural habitat :) We did a lot of touristy things (things that I had been wanting to do after finding this new sense of excitement for my island home!) like Ala Moana, Waikiki, surf lessons (sorry Cyndi! I am a BAD instructor!), and North shore. Jamie (a 3rd year JET this year) also came down for a visit! The time flew by and before I knew it I was packing up and heading to Hilo.

Cyndi and me at Waimea Bay, North Shore.

The final highlight of my trip was going to Hilo to see grandma&grandpa. It had been one roller coaster of a year and I was so happy to finally be able to go and see them in their new home. They were the main reason I came back this summer. We spent time on my uncle's deck, looking out into the beautiful surrounding landscapes, and talking about anything and everything that came to mind. It was nice having the entire immediate family (with the exception of my older cousin Ryan) all under one roof. We were like one big, happy family. We had an amazing local dinner one night with everyone eating together at the table. That moment could not be beat. One day, my mom, dad, brother, and I went to Akaka Falls and did the 30 min hike (which only took us 15 min). It was nice just spending time with everyone, laughing about stupid things, and being "tourists" for once.

The Yoshida family in Hilo.

The best grandparents a girl could as for.

I'll never forget my trip home to Hawaii. I'm so glad I decided to go home. The time spent there really refreshed me and gave me a new perspective to bring to this new upcoming JET year. That no matter where I am in the world, I'll always have Hawaii and it's amazing&beautiful people to call my home.

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It was awesome seeing you all! To those I didn't get a chance to meet up with, I hope to see and spend time with you when I come back for good! Love you all so much! :)

Hawaii Sweet Hawaii (part 1)

It had been one whole year since I had last been home. I was nervous about what I'd be coming home to, about how much things may have changed. I had read literature on reverse culture shock and was apprehensive about my own dealings with it. There wasn't much time to worry though, as I needed to be at Narita airport just 5 hours after hiking Mt. Fuji. (Don't worry, I bought some hand wipes and cleaned up before boarding the plane! Hehe...) Praise the Lord I made it to the check-in counter just as they were closing up! As I entered my terminal, I caught myself looking around to see if I recognized any familiar faces - an old Hawaii habit if you will. I smiled and laughed at the ridiculousness of my actions.

My plane-mate was a girl traveling from Thailand to visit family before continuing on to Oregon for her freshman year in college. That's about all I gathered from her. I was exhausted. I had just spent a 13 hour all-nighter on Mt. Fuji, cut me some slack :P I remember explaining to her about my Fuji adventure and how I was ready to pass out, hearing the fasten seat belt chime, and then...zzzzzzzz. At one point I do remember waking up to the pilot warning us about some extreme turbulence approaching and then...zzzzzzzzz. Next thing I know, we're landing at the Honolulu International Airport. I said goodbye to my plane-mate (who I learned had to crawl OVER me to get to the bathroom after many failed attempts to wake me) at the baggage claim and walked through the immigration gate.

The sensation following this moment can best be described as a combination of college graduation, finishing my first half-marathon, and eating a pizza pocket. Let me explain: College graduation. This was the culmination of 5 years (yes, 5) of hard work, dedication, and persistence. I can honestly say that I have never worked that hard at something ever in my life. Just like in JET, there were so many times I was ready to pack it in, break contract, and return to the comfort of my parent's house. But I didn't. I stayed the course, grew as an individual, and became that much stronger of a person. Finishing a half-marathon. This component embodies the idea of a complete cycle. After 2 hours and 12 min of running, I returned to the same place from which I had started, but returned having accomplished something amazing. I had survived on my own in Japan for one entire year --quite an amazing feat if you ask me. I walked through the same airport that had seen me off a year ago. Me, a naive little island girl taking on the world alone for the very first time. The airport no longer seemed very intimidating. (Probably because NOTHING compares to the chaos of Narita airport.) Eating a pizza pocket. When I was in elementary school, my mom would take my brother and me to 7-11 every Wednesday just before Japanese school classes (yeah I was cool, I know) started in the late afternoon. She would let us pick out one treat, whether it be a slurpee or a spam musubi. I would sometimes settle on a pizza pocket. Just that feeling of holding a freshly microwaved pizza pocket is, to me, the epitomy of comfort. I would look forward to Wednesdays, spending special time with my mom, and getting the chance to eat junk food. It was a good way to get over the hump of a long week of cursive practice, fractions, and art projects. In the same way, I was so excited to be back in the comfort of my island home to see my family and friends and to visit places I had daydreamed about during those long monotonous days at the BOE.

I anxiously pushed my suitcase through the corridor and was met by my happy and smiling family :) No better feeling in the world. It was an amazing reunion, like the lost son returning to his father. I was home.

hello goodbye

My next blog was suppose to be about my trip back home to Hawaii, but I found it hard to write when there was something else weighing on my heart. Hello--what an interesting concept. It's a form of change that I tend to deal with much better than with goodbyes. And yet, should it not be just as scary? In a first meeting, impression, or interaction, you find yourself still in this state of vulnerability, where new ideas and experiences flow freely from one person to another. Fear of being judged or rejected can easily keep people from experiencing everything that a hello has to offer. Why then, is it so difficult for me to say goodbye at times? Should I not just be grateful for the hellos that started each amazing adventure in my life? What am I holding on to?

Coming into my second and final year as an ALT in the JET Programme, I often think of the inevitable goodbyes waiting for me at the end. Like a criminal making their way through the crowd towards the guillotine, I find myself thinking more and more about the sadness and heartbreak that awaits. With every pure moment I come across, whether it be sipping coffee in the teacher's room laughing with the staff or gazing at the stars from a friend's balcony at 2am, I find my heart feeling heavier and heavier, unable to fully appreciate the full significance of the moment for fear that someday it will cease to exist. A memory forgotten, a time that can only be revisited in my dreams where nothing's real.

It wasn't until recently that I realized how dangerous this way of thinking was; how such dark undertones could severely affect the second half of my JET career. This past weekend, we had a big JET beach party for the new incoming ALTs of Yamaguchi. It was a weekend full of hellos. I got to know a lot of new people, their backgrounds, their ways of thinking, their dreams and aspirations. It was a really refreshing experience for me, after having said goodbye to so many friends in July. And in these moments, I found myself revitalized as I was not thinking about the goodbyes that would someday be associated with each hello. Instead, I found myself excited for all the hundreds upon thousands of adventures waiting to be had, as though each hello was like a portal to a new world.

With this new mindset, I find myself looking forward to this new year: to the sleepovers at friends' houses, to the traveling across Japan, to the 6am train rides after a night out in Hiroshima, to the midnight 7-11 chuhai runs, to the situations that make my jaw drop and leave me with the words "Oh, Japan" to explain the ridiculousness of it all, to the moments where I stand in amazement that I'm actually living in Japan, and finally, to the day that I'll say my final farewell to Japan and it's amazing people, and thank it for an amazing and life-changing 2 years.

L to R: Brandon, me, Alice, and Michelle. Brandon&Michelle are awesome Oshima-mates :) Alice is the new beautiful Yanai JET.

Me w/the new Kudamatsu team: Steph and Kyle. I heart Steph's quirkiness and Kyle's genuineness.

Another eastsider, Nate...snow, cars, and wine...instant win ;)

Mt. Fuji: The Agro Crag of Japan

Just arrived at Fuji train station, ready for some adventure!

As a child, I remember sitting on my living floor, staring up at the TV screen, and watching in amazement as participants of the Nickelodeon GUTs show raced up a massive mountain-like structure known as the "Agro Crag" while combatting falling styrofoam rocks and gusts of smoke. I never imagined that someday I, too, would be doing the same type of ascent, only my Agro Crag wasn't made of cushions and polystyrene foam. Nope, mine was comprised of volcanic rocks and blistering cold temperatures. Agro Crag, meet Mt. Fuji.

The Agro Crag and Mt. Fuji. Which would you choose to climb??

The top of Mt. Fuji is the highest peak of Japan, standing at 12,388 ft (3,776 m). Wikipedia tells me that about 200,000 people climb Mt. Fuji every year. A small climbing window exists during the months of July and Aug. Climbing during any other month is highly discouraged. We decided to embark on our Fuji adventure on Sun, July 18, 2010. The meeting place: Fujinomiya station. Of the 10 stops that make up the grueling ascent, buses take people to the midpoint 5th station for about 3,000 yen RT. There are 4 main climbing routes to the top on different sides of Mt. Fuji: Fujinomiya (the one we did), Kawaguchiko, Gotemba, and Subashiri. The Fujinomiya 5th station starts you at an elevation of about 7,874 ft.

Cyndi, Callie, and me at 5th station, 10pm.

My 2 adventure-mates included Ms. Callie Seymour of Shimonoseki and Ms. Cyndi Waite of Hikari. This would be our last HAZAH, as they were both returning home at the end of the month. We took the bus to 5th station, backpacks stuffed w/energy bars, water, and clothes, energy overflowing for the adventure ahead. After 2 hours of acclimating to our new altitude (about 10pm), we began the 4,514 ft (0.85 miles!) ascent to the top in high spirits.

I must admit, the view from Fuji was spectacular.

I won't lie to you, the climb was hard. I tried from the beginning to pace myself, stay hydrated, and give enough time to rest between stations. The path was roped off, so it was easy to manage. I also had on a headlamp freeing up my hands. Callie and I even bought the popular Fuji stick (from 7-11 hehe), a walking stick that you can get branded (like a cow) at each station. The higher you ascend, the more seals you'll get burned into your stick marking your progress. Each seal was about 200 yen ($2). I would definitely bring a walking stick with you, as it made my ascent and descent much easier.

Posing with my cool walking stick.

The hardest and longest part of the trip was between 6th station (8,169 ft) and new 7th station (9,120 ft). It took us about 1.5 hours to complete. The higher you go, the harder it is to breathe because less oxygen is available. Because of this, I would find myself taking 25 steps or so and then having to stop, bring my heart rate back down to normal, and just breathe. I was scared of getting altitude sickness because I heard once you reach that point, you need to start your descent back down. I had made quite a journey just to get to Mt. Fuji, and was not going to accept defeat. I was getting to the top no matter what. NO. MATTER. WHAT.

We made our way to 7th station (yeah, there are two 7th stations...weird) at 9,875 ft. The stations really are what keep you going. You can stock up on liquids, use the bathroom (costs about $1-$2 to use the toilets!), and take shelter at each. The higher you go, however, the more expensive things cost. Makes sense considering how difficult it is to transport goods up there. Most people start their ascent at about 5pm, reach 8th or 9th station, and then sleep there for a bit before continuing their climb to the top in time for the sunrise. But not Callie, Cyndi, and me. Nope. We were troopers. Some would call us "amazing," others would call us "idiots." We planned to do the whole hike in one night. Up in time for the sunrise and then back down in one swift motion. Sunrise was at 4:30/5am so time was our real enemy. And altitude sickness. And low blood glucose levels. And cold. Yeah, there were a lot of forces acting against us.

We had reached 8th station (10,662 ft). It was cold. I had layered clothing over the past couple hours. I now boasted 2 layers of pants, 4 layers of shirts, plus my snowboard pants and jacket. (We Hawaiians DO NOT like the cold!) I was tired. And hungry. And needed to pee. I was NOT in a good mood. But amidst my grumbling and unhappy spirit, I remember turning around to look at the spectacular surrounding nature. It was an incredible sight. Fuji's silhouette against the backdrop of city lights boasted its true grandeur. We were above the clouds, bringing me back to days of playing Super Mario World, leading Mario across the elevated pathway of clouds separating him from danger. I could see hikers just begining their climb at the bottom, flashlights and head lamps illuminating in the dark. Following the path up in single file, it looked like a necklace of lights ringing around Mt. Fuji. And the stars. It was as if God had made a gigantic cluster of stars just for Mt. Fuji to look at. I contemplated reaching out to see if I could actually touch one and bring it home, but fought the urge :)

We had just reached 9th station (11,351 ft) and it was already 4am. It looked as though sunrise at the top was no longer a realistic and attainable goal. We were tired. And hungry. I bought a small styrofoam bowl of udon for about 800 yen ($8 for a tiny bowl!). I was so cold, I didn't care about the cost. We commandeered a table inside the hut and sprawled ourselves on it. Cyndi wasn't feeling good and we had to figure plans out. To go or not to go? We had come all this way. We all took mini naps for a bit. All-nighter - what was I thinking!? My body was hating my decision and making damn sure I knew it. I vaguely remember waking up to Callie asking me if I wanted pictures of the sunrise. "Shhrr..." I murmured. I was seriously concerned whether continuing to the top was a good idea. We had about 3 hours more to go, and not to mention the 5 hour hike BACK DOWN.

A beautiful sunrise picture from 9th station, compliments of Ms. Callie.

After much debate, Callie and I decided to continue on to the top while Cyndi rested at the lodging facilities of 9th station. We had come too far to call it quits. Plus, I knew I'd regret it for the rest of my life if I turned back. And I'm all against regret. With this new found sense of determination, my body began doing something amazing: it started producing adrenaline. We made it to 9.5th station (11,778 ft) pretty quickly and before you knew it, the peak was in sight. A lot of people had started their descent back down, making it hard for us to continue at the pace we had began with since both the ascent and descent paths were the same. As inconvenient as it was, it felt like everyone on that mountain was tied by a common bond. People descending would lend words of encouragement to us like, "Keep it up!" and "You're almost there!" which was really cool.

6:00am. Callie and I make it to the top. The top of Mt. Fuji. MT FUJI!!! Thoughts? In this order: This is incredible. Wow, there are a lot of people here. A POST OFFICE!? I need to pee. There was a lot of activity at the top. People were taking pictures, getting their sticks stamped, buying stuff from the souvenir shop, eating food at the little shop, mailing post cards, and just basking in the accomplishment that is hiking Fuji. Callie and I did all of it, from ordering a 600 yen ($6) cup-o-noodle, to mailing postcards to our family.

The torii gate at the top of Mt. Fuji.

Callie and me at the TOP!!!

And thus began the descent back down. Start time: 6:30am. End time: 11:30am. It. was. hell. Although a lot easier since resting wasn't as big an issue anymore, the sun slowly stole away our energy, and fatigue from the all-nighter was beginning to take a toll on my body. We picked up Cyndi, who was feeling a lot better from a couple hours sleep, at 9th station and continued downwards. I didn't even think to bring sunscreen and was regretting it with every step. Somewhere along the way I had dropped my big 2L container of water and was now depending on what little water I had left in my water bottle that Callie and Cyndi had so graciously given me. Towards the end of the journey, I was scrupiously spending money on small 500 yen ($5) bottles of water just to stay alive. My head was now throbbing due to lack of sleep. My energy level was low, it was hot, and time had become an issue once again. We needed to make the 12:30pm bus so that I could make it to the airport in time for my flight back to Hawaii. Cyndi also had to make a night bus back for Yamaguchi. Oh how I regretted my decision to do this all just before my trip home. But it was too late for regrets, all we had to do was focus on getting to the bottom. And that we did.

I prayed, asking God to take away my headache. Come 6th station, Callie overhears a tourist couple passing around Tylenol, and they share some with me. MIRACLE! (Stores in Japan don't sell painkillers. You actually have to go to a hospital or pharmacy to buy them. So there would have been NO WAY of me getting rid of that headache without the help of those tourists!) Hope was back. We kept at it, sliding down the volcanic gravel, trying not to fall off the path. Finally, we came to the starting point, 5th station. I looked up to the peak of Mt. Fuji in disbelief that we had been there, just 5 hours earlier. It looked so much different from where I was standing now having climbed it. At first it was this massive, unconquerable beast of a mountain. The Agro Crag of Japan. And now it was...nope, it's still this massive, unconquerable beast of a mountain. "But Tiff," you may ask, "why do you still consider it unconquerable? You've done it once already." True, but I doubt I could ever do it again. And I don't think I'd ever want to. As the old proverb goes, "A wiseman climbs Fuji once, a fool twice."

Reaching the top was worth it. I really did feel like I was on top of the world.

For more info on the trails and background of Mt. Fuji, check out these helpful links!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mt._Fuji

http://mountfujiguide.com/guide/Fujinomiya_Trail

Goodbyes, a time to reflect

**Gosh, has it really been over 2 months since I last touched this blog? So sad. I promise to do much better this upcoming year. So much has happened within that span of time, I think I'll break it up by major events. I'm at the BOE everyday this week, so expect LOTS of updating!**

L to R: Chris, Sarah, Isaac, Erin, me, and Al at our YES English Society farewell party

The JET Program works in 1-year intervals, allowing a participant to decide whether or not to recontract for a 2nd, 3rd, etc... year. Many of my close friends in the Guch decided to return back to their homes this summer. June and July was full of last dinners, packing dates, and goodbye parties. I have never been a big fan of goodbyes, but realize it's necessary and important role in my life. Change is an unavoidable force that often brings about hardships, but also growth. And you know me, I'm all for the growth.

The first day I met Whit, I was in tears because I had learned I would be staying at a hotel by myself away from everyone. She must have thought I was freaking CRAZY!

Reflecting back on my first year in Japan, I can see exactly how much growth I managed just living on my own in a foregin country. When I first arrived in Japan, I had never lived on my own before. Those first few weeks of washing dishes, taking out the trash, combatting BUGS in the apartment, and budgeting for food/bills/fun really did a number on me, but I got through. I remember sitting at my desk at the BOE, staring at the calendar on my desk, flipping through the months, and thinking, "How the heck am I gonna survive this?" Once I started visiting schools, participating in activities on my island during the week, and hanging out with friends on the weekends, the months just flew by.

Before you knew it, winter was here and the only place you'd find me was 5 inches away from a heater. Again, I remember sitting under my kotatsu in my living room, layers of blankets and clothing shielding me from the cold, heater just inches from my face, staring at a picture of Hawaii on my wall, and thinking, "How the heck am I gonna survive this?" (You see, we Hawaii people are a tropical species and HATE the cold...well, at least I do.) Once I started layering up my clothes, bought some snowboard gear, and started hitting the slopes, the months just flew by.

Whit and me at the Leaver's Party. Saying goodbye after a year of friendship is never easy.

Finally, after 6 months of COLD, spring came with all it's sakura beauty. And with it, hope. Hope that I really could survive and succeed in Japan. I think it was at this time that I truly reached a balance in my JET life. I had gotten into a good rhythm teaching at my schools, "working" at the BOE, seeing friends, and exploring Japan. But just as you reach this new level of acceptance and comfortability, God throws you a new set of challenges, and you find yourself saying goodbye to many friends that helped you along the way.

Seb and me on the shinkansen to Fukuoka where Seb was catching his airplane home :(

I had the greatest support system a 1st year JET could ever ask for. To say goodbye to such wonderful people was really difficult; however, I know it's a confirmation of the sincerity of our friendship. This past year was full of challenges and hardships for me personally, and these people pulled me out and saved me a lot of the time. I could enjoy their company, vent out my frustrations, sleep on their couch, cry in their arms, and discover Japan together with them. Yamaguchi did experience a great loss from them leaving, but I have no doubt in my mind that it will gain a lot with the new JETs coming in this summer. (And hopefully I can provide that sort of support system for the new JETs.)

Rather than sulk on my losses, I choose to rejoice in the memories of last year, and hopefully bring that positive energy with me through to this next year. Oh the adventures to be had!

The new JET year has arrived! BRING IT ON JAPAN! :)

Check out the short video I made for AJET! It recaps the 2009-2010 AJET/nonAJET events!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fC-ZIacMjM

kimchee, mr. park, and military fun!

One of the benefits of being in the JET Progamme is the opportunity to travel the world. Not only have I visited many prefectures in Japan (including Hokkaido, Fukuoka, Osaka, Kyoto, Hyogo, Oita, Hiroshima, Shimane, and Shikoku), but I have also been blessed to go to Thailand and now...Korea. South Korea to be exact ;) The world is so much bigger than we are shown in geography class in Hawaii. I remember watching the game show “Where in the World is Carmen Sandiego?” when I was little and thinking to myself, “How do these contestants know all these facts about the world?” “How do they know where all these countries are?” I never imagined having the resources to travel throughout the different parts of Asia and see these places and experience their cultures myself. My philosophy on travel: If not now, when? South Korea was an amazing adventure full of good fun, onolicious food, and unforgettable experiences.

Right now, a SUPER rough conversion estimate is about $1 to 100 yen to 1250 won. A 10 min cab ride costs about $4. AND you don’t tip in South Korea. When we went out for shopping we could barter w/the shopkeepers. The streets of Seoul (in the Hongik University area where we stayed) were lined with small family-run boutiques, each holding their own style and identity. There was also a street market called Namdaemum market which boasted blocks and blocks of street vendors selling everything from socks, to fruits, to fake LV goods. (It reminded me of Thailand’s night market.) We also shopped in the Myongdong district, which was full of American shops like H&M, Forever 21, Puma, and Gap. In Busan, the city had a more New York Times Square feel, with tall buildings, bright lights, and a younger crowd walking the streets well into the night. Stores were still open pass 10pm. An amazing energy filled the streets wherever we went.

Shinkansen vs KTX
The shinkansen is Japan’s pride and joy. The equivalent in Korea is called the KTX (Korean Train Express). It is very similar to the shinkansen in that the Koreans take much pride in it. There are even stores that sell KTX merchandise. We took the KTX from Busan to Seoul, an approximately 3 hour ride costing us a little under $50 one-way. Although a bit narrower and having more seats per car, the KTX was a good way to see the Korean countryside. If I had to pick one, however, I would choose the shinkansen. Why? Because nothing can beat the awesomeness that is the Nozomi 700 :)

On our ride to Seoul, the “Yoshida curse” (as my family refers to it as) was upon our traveling group. Whether it be at a movie theatre or on a bus, a commotion always ends up sitting behind one of us Yoshidas. And that’s exactly what happened. During our 3-hour ride, a lady and her son apparently snuck on board (yeah, you read that right...they don’t always check your tickets) and thus the Yoshida curse was upon us. Her son would sporadically burst into whining and crying, bang what sounded like coins against the fold-down table, and kick my chair. I’m not sure how others managed to sleep, but it was the longest 3 hours of my life. At one point I stood up and stared at the mother, waiting for her disciplining mode to kick into effect. A rider w/the correct ticket thankfully replaced them a bit later. May I just say, that would NEVER happen in Japan...

kimchee, Bibimbap, and Korean BBQ
Oh the food! What an amazing difference there is between Korean and Japanese food. Throughout my 5 days in Korea, I found myself sweating and gulping down gallons of water to combat the spiciness that is Korean food. Unfortunately for us, the Korean speaking abilities of our travel group were minimal. The two words I did manage to pick up while there were “pap” meaning rice and “mul” meaning water. Our first night in Busan, we chose to eat at a Korean BBQ restaurant. Unbenounced to us there were no menus. The waiter handed us a paper listing the various foods (in KOREAN) and their prices. We ended up pointing to random foods and waited to see what we ordered. Moments later, our tiny table was filled with plates of meat and small side dishes full of vegetables, noodles, and soups. The idea seemed self-explanatory: grill the food until they look ready to eat. Apparently we were doing something wrong because often times our waiter would take the tongs out of our hands and flip/cut the meat in his own professional way. We watched him grill everything in amazement. The food was incredible. I have never had such juicy and tender beef in my life. (Well, Hy’s is QUITE good...hmm...)

Look at all those tiny dishes. It must suck being a dishwasher in Korea!

My favorite Korean food is kimchee-chige (kimchee stew) and I was SO EXCITED to have authentic kimchee-chige while there. It was HOT. Very hot, but so good. Another dish I wanted to try (but never got a chance to) was the bibimbop. My friends ordered it for brunch once, however, and it looked amazing.Not the most tourist-friendly place, but an unforgettable experience nonetheless.

North & South: A Push for Peace
We booked a tour from 8am-2:30pm which took us to major areas of the demilitarized zone separating North and South Korea.The 3^rd Tunnel was found in 1978, just 52 km away from Seoul. The North Koreans are said to have dug 20 tunnels in total, all for the invasion of South Korea. To date, only 4 have been discovered. The 3^rd Tunnel is 1,635 m in length, allog an army of 30,000 North Korean soldiers to pass through in 1 hour.

Yeah, it was kinda weird taking pictures at a DEMILITARIZED zone...but when in Rome, do as the tourists do!

We had to wait in line for a hardhat to wear when walking through the 3^rd tunnel. Finally it came our turn and Rachel (my 5’7” friend) got a hardhat first. I was just about to receive one when the lady in charge pointed at me and said “pass.” I thought she meant she was passing me...because I was Japanese? I don’t know...but I was like, “Wha...? How come? Aww man.” She pointed at my head and said “PASS!” Apparently I was so short that I didn’t need a hardhat and could proceed without one. Bleh :P And it was true. I didn’t have to bend down once throughout that tour. We traveled through the tunnel and got to the end blocked off by barbed wire.

We also went to the northernmost observatory in South Korea, where you can see into North Korea. Unfortunately (fortunately?) for us, it was really cloudy that day, so nothing could be seen from the lookout. They were super strict about pictures being taken too. Just before the lookout was a painted yellow line where cameras could not be taken past. They even had a Korean soldier standing guard enforcing the rule. Well, that didn’t mean we couldn’t take pictures with him!

Our friend, the Korean soldier. (Notice how cloudy it was!)

Our last stop was the Dorasan Train Station. It is the northernmost international station. The Koreans hope that once North and South Korea reunite, trains leaving this station in South Korea will be able to continue their journey to Pyeongyang station in North Korea.

Korean Massage Day
In Thailand, my friend Rachel and I opted to get an authentic Thai massage for half a day. We thought it be cool to make it a tradition and try the different types of massages throughout the world thereafter. We decided on a small spa in a hotel in Seoul. We were taken into a locker room by an old Korean lady who didn’t speak English (or read numbers as it was hard for her to match up our locker keys with their corresponding lockers). After observing other customers there, we realized it was the same procedure as onsens in Japan. After a shower and a 20 min wait in the “Korean onsen” (which was so hot I almost got a heat stroke) we then proceeded to the massage section of the spa. This is when things took a weird turn...

We were instructed to lie on a padded table. Totally normal right? Wrong. Out came our masseuses; I had a middle-aged lady and Rachel had the lady that led us into the spa earlier. Only thing was, they were in their underwear...I think one of them may have been completely naked but I’m not completely sure. She proceeded to scrubbing me down with some rough mittens she was wearing on her hands. And she scrubbed her little heart out...and she scrubbed everywhere...EVERYWHERE. Even in places I never knew I had :P Once that was done, she doused me with warm water and went on to rub lotion on me. Everywhere. EVERYWHERE. At one point, I almost fell off the table because it was so slippery. Then came the massage. They cup their hands and hit the different parts of your body, producing a popping sort of sound. She would also lay hot towels on me and then pop-slap me. It was a very interesting experience. Would I recommend it? Well, if it were up to me, I would opt for the Thai massage...but that’s just me ;)

Hostel Fun
We stayed at 2 hostels, one in Busan and one in Seoul. In Busan we stayed at Blue Backpackers, a family-owned hostel located very close to the heart of Busan. It was quite tricky to find but we eventually found it. Unfortunately, the hostel is set right next to some train tracks, but I guess it doesn’t really matter when you crash from a long days trip. The facilities are a bit on the older side, but the rooms were all full and the customer service is great. They booked us our KTX tickets, wrote down instructions to take us to the train station in Korean, and let us use their phone. It is also located pretty darn close to the crazy Busan nightlife (True! It does exist!)

Mr. Park rocks. Period.

The hostel we stayed at in Seoul, Guys and Dolls Guesthouse, was an amazing hostel located in the heart of the Hongik University district. The people were young, the atmosphere creative, and an energy unlike any I’d ever felt before pulsed through the lights and chatter of the evening. The owner, Mr. Park, was an avid Broadway musical lover, and so rightly named the hostel after his favorite production. He was my favorite memory of the trip. A simple and entertaining character, Mr. Park was the key to our fun in Seoul. He arranged our tour of the DMZ, took time to educate us on Korean culture and practices, and made sure his hostel was always cozy and presentable.

I’ll never forget the day when we were trying to figure out which day to take the DMZ tour. Mashing it out in the guestroom, I recall being in deep conversation with my friends when all of a sudden I see Mr. Park sweeping up dust past our door. He peeked in, duster in hand, and asked, “DMZ? Tuesday ok?” and continued on his way. I broke out laughing. Maybe you just had to be there...Another day, we were decompressing after a day of shopping and had decided to go to one of the nearby coffee shops.I turned to Mr. Park and asked him if he wanted coffee (thinking that I would bring him back some if he said yes). Mr. Park did say yes, however, threw me off guard when he proceeded to grab his jacket from the nearby coat hanger :) We all ended up going out for coffee with Mr. Park and he taught us all about life in Korea: from education to mandatory military service, his own personal background and his future plans for the hostel. I had a great time :)

Unfortunately, Mr. Park decided to close down the hostel and move to a quieter neighborhood. Guys and Dolls Guesthouse had been opened for 10 months and was closing the following Monday from when we stayed there. “Too much work” was what Mr. Park said about the hostel business. All the best to you Mr. Park! Thank you for making our stay in Seoul an amazing and memorable one!

Nighlife
The nightlife in Korea was very refreshing, especially when you live on Oshima in Yamaguchi. There were tons of little bars and clubs in the Hongik Univ area where we stayed in Seoul. The clubbing reminded me of Happy Cock in Fukuoka, tons of people squished into a small area with loud music playing. It was so hard to get around! At one point, I had to go outside and get some air because it was so hot! It was definitely a lot more fun than clubbing in Thailand. The crowd seemed a lot more energetic for some reason?

On our last night in Seoul we set out to find the infamous Subzero Icebar, a bar where everything (and I mean EVERYTHING, from the counters to the drinking glasses) are made of ice. For $15 you would receive a rental jacket, mittens, scarf, and one cocktail. They even had a challenge for the person who could stay in the bar the longest without leaving. If you had to go to the bathroom, you needed to pee in empty bottles in the bar. If you surpass the record holder, they would take the bottles of your pee and showcase it in its frozen state. Unfortunately for us, the bar had closed down :( When we were outside looking for it, a cute little asian lady was walking down the street, guidebook in hand, wearing a thick jacket and a scarf. You can guess where she was looking for ;)

Goodbye Korea...till we meet again!
Korea was an amazing place that I would love to visit again before I leave Japan for good. I would definitely recommend Seoul to anyone going to Korea. God has been so awesome in providing me with the resources to do these trips. There are so many other places around the world that I want to visit (which includes Australia, New Zealand, the Philippines again, and of course...all of Europe), and can’t wait to see where I end up next!